Michael Portillo reaches the Deben estuary on his coastal railway journey around eastern England. At Woodbridge, he is plunged in at the deep end on a rafting challenge with the sea scouts. Wren is a 12-year-old stallion who is an endangered breed now protected by the Suffolk Punch Trust. With a little help from his trainer, Michael picks up the lines to put him through his paces. At Thorpeness, Michael discovers Britain's first purpose-built seaside village, a dream resort for early 20th-century middle-class holidaymakers, with a golf course, a boating lake and a fairy-tale cottage. The Walberswick ferrywoman conveys Michael across the River Blythe to Southwold, a seaside town with a lighthouse. Inside the Adnams brewery, Michael learns how local barley is malted and fermented, and that varieties of hops have complex flavours.